dreamshark: (sharon tire)
The last stop of our great Iowa Road Trip was actually in Minnesota. We stopped in Owatonna for dinner and what turned out to be a lovely evening. I found the sushi restaurant (Mizuki Fusion) on Yelp, where the reviews tended towards "surprisingly good sushi for rural Minnesota." Let's just dispense with the obligatory big-city condescension and say that the sushi was every bit as good as city sushi. The fried wonton appetizer was the 2nd best fried tofu I've had (and it's really hard to beat Peninsula for that).
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After dinner we strolled across the street to the Historic Central Park Bandstand for a free outdoor concert. While we listened, I wandered around taking pictures of the Historic Fountain (restored in 1977) and the Historic Baby Alligator Water Fountains (1904). Owatonna is proud of its history, and there are plaques everywhere.
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Then, it being Golden Hour and all, I started in on the obviously old, handsome, and well-preserved downtown buildings (which probably had plaques too, but I didn't walk over to see). The most striking one turned out to be an architectural landmark even to people who are not from Owatonna. Can you identify the Louis Sullivan "jewel box"?
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Finally we get to the centerpiece of this trip - the High Trestle Trail. This is one of Iowa's newer Rails to Trails efforts, and it's a beauty! The trail itself is fairly long, but we just rode the segment between Woodward and Madrid where the High Trestle is (round trip 13 miles). The Woodward trailhead is great - parking, green space, flush toilets and picnic tables. It's less than 3 miles to the main attraction - The Trestle.
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The bridge is just beautiful, decorated with concrete pillars with shiny stuff embedded in them and these crazy self-rusting decorative... arches?  Not sure what to call them. But the best thing about the bridge is the silence. I've been on bridges that high before, but not without the roar of traffic. This is just bikes and peds.
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And when we finally get to Madrid (rhymes with "bad kid"), we find the best amenity of all - a trailside bar. With Blue Moon on tap!
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dreamshark: (sharon tire)

Thursday was our Big Day. We got up early, took advantage of the better-than-average free breakfast in the lobby, and were checked out by 9am. Our first adventure of the day was a tour of the spectacular state capitol. This has to be the best tourist deal in Iowa - the tour guide obviously loves his job and the whole thing was free. It really is quite a building. If Minnesota thinks it's going to catch up with Iowa in the upcoming capitol building renovation I hope they have invested in a ton of gold leaf.

The first floor looks pretty much like any stately government building if you don't peer too closely at the ornamentation on the ceilings and door frames.
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Things get more excessive )
But once you head up the stairs to the 2nd floor things get really out of hand. Those hand-painted frescoes around the top of the rotunda representing "the functions of government" are a great example of what happens when the repressed sexuality of the Victorian era meets classical art under the guise of sober civic reflection.

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 The hike between the House and Senate Chambers is decorated with incredibly elaborate Italian-made mosaics, topped with more gilding. The Chambers themselves do not disappoint.
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Our tour guide informs us that this is "the most photographed law library in the world." I'm not surprised. All it needs is an orangutan librarian to make it complete. Click through on this picture to see the incredible spiral staircase that appears to be the only way to reach the stacks on the upper level. There's another one just like it at the other end of the library.
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And finally, if you have the stamina, you can run up a completely different spiral staircase (103 steps!) to the Whispering Gallery way up under the dome. I went up - Richard waited below.
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dreamshark: (sharon tire)
If you can have fun on a trip to Des Moines, you can have fun anywhere, right?  Well, we had fun. Briefly, we drove to Des Moines to use up a free hotel night that was worth more in Iowa than in Minnesota. The centerpiece of the trip was actually a bike ride on the High Trestle Trail north of Des Moines, which did not disappoint. But for bonus fun we stopped on the way down to bike at a MN state park, visited the Science Center of Iowa, and enjoyed an excellent tour of the spectacular Iowa capitol building. Oh, and had a lovely evening in Owatonna on the way home.

Driving down we marvelled at the fighter jet sculpture at the Owatonna airport and an enormous wind farm just south of the Iowa border. The weather was picture-book perfect the whole way.
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We stopped at Myre Big Island State Park just outside Albert Lea for a little biking. It was very scenic, but hillier than anticipated, so our 5-6 mile ride pretty much wore us out.
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After our biking stop it was only another 2 hours to Des Moines. Checked into our hotel (Residence Inn Des Moines) and wandered over to the nearby Iowa Science Center. The museum was definitely kid stuff, but amusing enough for a quiet evening. We really enjoyed the Imax Show: Mysteries of the Unseen World.
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A lively restaurant/bar district was just a short walk from the hotel on Court St. We had a delicious dinner at Dos Rios Cantina. The empanadas were a work of art. Finished up Wednesday evening in the hotel hot tub, which we had all to ourselves.
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dreamshark: (sharon tire)
The trip to Chicago happened because I got these credit cards that gave me free Hilton nights, and one thing led to another. That mini-vacation was such a success that I think it's time for another, albeit more modest one. I have a free night to use up at a Marriott Category 4 hotel. Turns out that Cat 4 doesn't go very far in Minnesota (even Duluth has no Marriotts below Cat 5!). Oh, but what of our gentle neighbor to the south? All sorts of possibilities.

We like to take overnight bike trips, sleeping in a nice hotel or B&B rather than on the ground by the bikes. I'm kind of tired of Lanesboro and realized that if we're willing to drive to Lanesboro it's only a stone's throw further to Iowa. So I'm thinking of a trip to Des Moines, stopping along the way at Big Island State Park in Minnesota and the High Trestle Bridge Trail in Iowa. It appears to be only 3-4 hours to Des Moines, so even with a biking stop along the way we should have time for a little touristing and a nice meal.

I have my eye on The Residence Inn Des Moines, which looks quite pleasant. Any ideas for spending a day or so in Des Moines?

The hotel says, "The NEW Residence Inn by Marriott, the only all- suite, extended stay hotel in downtown Des Moines sits on the scenic river, close to Principal Park, Court Avenue Entertainment District, Science Center of Iowa and the Iowa Events Center "

So in the absence of a better idea, I'm thinking Science Center of Iowa sounds promising. Some place air-conditioned would probably be a good idea, considering the climate in Iowa. Any ideas from Iowa folks?
dreamshark: (sharon tire)


Slide show in reverse order, since that's just how Photobucket rolls.
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Another sparkling fall day, so we decided to try a guided kayak tour of the "sea caves" along the shore north of Bayfield. But that didn't work out. Some of the outfits that do these tours had already closed up for the summer and the one that was left couldn't fit us with a boat that worked. Getting into those little kayak holes requires more bending, folding and spindling than Richard's joints can manage, and the tacky looking plastic canoe that Kayak John offered us instead didn't look all that sea worthy. So we wandered over to Tom's Bike Shop (aka Bayfield Bike Route) to look for a map of local bike routes. This was a perfect move. There aren't a lot of dedicated bike paths in the area, but good old Tom knows the road routes like the back of his hand and was able to suggest a poorly marked but perfectly paved forestry road that was actually on our way back to the cities. It really was a lovely bike route, although hillier than we expected. Still, by breaking our jaunt into two parts we achieved our 20 miles and headed home.


National Forest Road #237 (Friday, Sept 10) National Forest Road #237 (Friday, Sept 10) Tom the bike shop owner tipped us off to this lovely road ride west of Washburn. Turn off to the south just before Hwy 13 swings north towards Cornucopia. It's like a great big bike path - 20 miles of brand new smooth asphalt with practically no traffic.
More of NF 237 More of NF 237 About this time we had figured out the catch with this lovely ride - it's pretty much all downhill north to south. Which means, since we started at the north end, that we'd be riding uphill all the way back to our car. Into the wind. Ouch. So we sensibly stopped at 5 miles and rode back to the car.
Ino Bar Ino Bar Since we were trying for 20 miles a day of biking, we came up with this great solution to the hill problem. We drove to the south end of NF #237, where our intel told us we would find a bar. After fortifying ourselves with beer and fried chicken fingers we set out from the south end of the trail, heading uphill.
NF 237, south end NF 237, south end We made it 5 miles up the trail, and now it's downhill all the way! Whee!



dreamshark: (Madeline)
Thursday turned out to be a beautiful, brisk fall day. Good timing because this was the day we'd planned to spend biking on Madeline Island, the centerpiece of the trip. Madeline Island looks like such an idyllic place to live, but I couldn't help thinking about the logistics as we rode across on the ferry. The friendly woman in the tiny Chamber of Commerce office answered some of my questions. Yes, the natives get a discount card for the ferry, but it is still expensive: several hundreds of dollars per year even if you leave your car behind and do all your mainland errands on foot. Apparently having friends on the mainland who you can carpool to the store with is a godsend, and almost a necessity once your kids outgrow the elementary school on the island and need places to stay overnight so they can participate in afterschool activities.

Besides chatting with the locals, we hung around town long enough to stock up on cheese and crackers for lunch, then hopped on our bikes and headed for beautiful Big Bay State Park on the other side of the island for a few hours, then back to the ferry, taking the longer route along the south shore to get us to 20 miles, our unofficial goal for the day. It was near sunset when we got back to the mainland, but we had time to pick up a couple of wearable souvenirs in the little tourist stores (earrings for me, a tie-dyed sweatshirt for Richard). Oh, and and a bottle of wine to drink by the fireplace back at the B&B.


Madeline Island Ferry (Thursday, Sept 10) Madeline Island Ferry (Thursday, Sept 10) Thursday brought us a beautiful, brisk fall day. We rode our bikes down the long hill to the docks and took the 10am ferry to the island.




More pictures behind cut )
dreamshark: (GreyOak)
In the afternoon, after our ride on the Munger Trail, we headed over the Wisconsin border to Bayfield, passing many miles of scenery that looks exactly like northern Minnesota. Pines and Aspen. Aspen and Pine. More pines and aspen. Okay, some of the pines are actually fir and some of the aspen are actually birch, but it's pretty much the same thing. I can't help but think that if there is an ecology in the world that could clearly benefit from a little global warming, this is it. It has a kind of pristine rural sincerity to it, but not a lot of variety. I won't subject you to any pictures of this scenery - you all know what it looks like.

Bayfield itself is, of course, utterly charming. That's how it makes its living after all.

Grey Oak B&B - Bayfield, Wisconsin (Sept 8, 2010) Grey Oak B&B - Bayfield, Wisconsin (Sept 8, 2010) The B&B is the usual handsome, well-preserved Victorian, but the really impressive sight is the tree in the center of the picture - the largest living American chestnut tree in Wisconsin. Possibly in the country, since Wisconsin is one of the few states that has ANY mature American chestnuts (they were mostly wiped out 100 years ago by chestnut blight). Although it has recently lost its head, it's still alive and valiantly producing chestnuts. Sterile chestnuts, nfortunately, since there are no male chestnut trees left to fertilize them.


more pictures here )
dreamshark: (eelpout)
The last 2 years Richard and I did a lot of biking, including a few overnight bike trips that were a lot of fun. This year we haven't done much biking, partly because of the weather and partly because Richard was having alternating problems with a knee and a hip most of the summer and I was obsessed with skating and Pilates. His joints finally got better about the time the weather started looking pleasantly cool, so I took Labor Day week off work for a 3-night bike trip Up North. The weather turned out not quite as great as initially predicted, but it was good enough. We did a lot of driving, a bit of sight-seeing, and 72 miles of biking. We also did quite a lot of eating and drinking, which kind of cancelled out all the exercise in the health department but added to the fun. 



Outside Aquarium, watching lift bridge descend Outside Aquarium, watching lift bridge descend

Starting off with the quintessential Duluth tourist picture. Look, look! The bridge is moving! See, there it goes. Isn't the little control house right in the middle adorable? That's where I'd live if I were looking for a place to roost in a post-apocalyptic Duluth. Read more... )
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Yes, we did manage a little biking on our bike trip.

Read more... )
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After a thoroughly dismal October we finally had a short taste of Indian summer last week, so I impulsively took a couple of days off work and dragged Richard down to Lanesboro for an overnight bike trip. One nice thing about November - you can get a room in the nicest Bed and Breakfast in town with no notice and no reservations. So we did. We managed to get in a little biking each day on the Root River Trail. We also did a little shopping, coming home with a case of local wine and a hand-made solid oak Amish wastebasket.


B&B pictures behind the cut. )
dreamshark: (crane)
We had so much fun last summer with out of town and in town bike trails that I was looking forward to more of the same this year. Sadly, with one thing and another, we haven't managed a single overnight expedition and precious few more local expeditions. But the weather in September was too lovely to ignore, and we managed some local trail rides each of the last 3 weekends. pictures here )
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I got so carried away with political posts and complaining about traffic snarls that I haven't posted anything about what I've been doing for the past two months. I don't remember anything I did that I didn't take pictures of, which mostly seems to be bike trips. This one was just a little afternoon trip with my friend Trisha. I had ridden a the entire eastern portion of the stupidly named "Southwest LRT Corridor," which actually comprises two or three different trails traversing several western suburbs. However, I have never ridden on either of the segments west of Hopkins. The 6-mile stretch from Excelsior to Victoria was one I wanted to try. I rode with my friend Trisha.

We put our bikes in the van and drove to Excelsior, unfortunately arriving in the middle of a festive local event called "Apple Days." We were still able to find street parking, picked our way through the bacchanalian throngs to the trail, and rode west to the little town of Victoria. The trail is quite pleasant, mostly shaded and flat. Crushed limestone rather than asphalt, but in good condition. Most of the trail runs through a posh region of lakeside exurb, with a little open prairie as it approaches Victoria. At the point where the trail hits Carver Park there is a choice of not one but TWO taverns. Whee! We picked the more upscale Victoria House and had beer and burgers on the terrace with a view of Steiger Lake. We considered riding on into the park, but the weather was looking threatening so we headed back, arriving at our car shortly after it started to drizzle.

This is part of a series of bike trips documented by phone-camera, as my regular camera had gone missing. Pictures here. )
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The bike ride to Buhl was not as much fun as the other segments we rode on the Mesabi trail - too many hills, some road noise from Hwy 169 and a destination that really had nothing to recommend it (the only thing Buhl can think of to brag about is their water). However, the real reason I wanted to ride this stretch was to check out the local ore pit along the way. The friendly night clerk at the Chisholm Inn told us where to find it. Back in her day, she told us, they used to party in the ore dumps out on old 169, but the mining companies have now fenced that off (as they always do when the local kids start having too much fun). I got a kick out of the "back in my day" remark - she's maybe 22 years old. Anyway, this little pit lake was exactly what I was looking for. However with temps in the low to mid '60's it wasn't exactly swimming weather any more. Next time we come up here, I'll know where to go.

The side trip to Duluth was actually an accident; we missed the turnoff to Hwy 33 and next thing we knew...

pictures behind cut )
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The walk-around exhibit at the top of the pit offers so many irresistible photo ops...

why is my LJ cut not working??? )
And they're still scraping away at it And they're still scraping away at it

Last time I was here this part of the mine was full of water. Hibbing Taconite decided to come back and take some more ore out, so they drained it again. And you know where all that water goes? They pump it up over the ridge and down the road into the Hibbing storm sewers! That town must have the most overbuilt storm sewer system in the country.

See that cute little steam shovel down there? Do you realize just how big it really is? Expand this picture and see if you an find the people.
And this isn't even the biggest ore truck And this isn't even the biggest ore truck

And here's where we find out just what the scale of this mining equipment really is.

This is the little 170-ton truck. (the newer ones are 240 tons). Looks like something Fisher-Price would build if their target market was the Jolly Green Giant's family.
Here's Richard in a little ore bucket Here's Richard in a little ore bucket
And here's Sharon in another ore bucket And here's Sharon in another ore bucket
This seemed like a really big tire until we saw the ones on the other side This seemed like a really big tire until we saw the ones on the other side
These photo ops are just irresistible These photo ops are just irresistible
And we thought the last tire was big! And we thought the last tire was big!
Oh no! This one is bigger yet! Oh no! This one is bigger yet!

This tire is, no lie, 12 feet tall!
This is just too much fun! This is just too much fun!


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The Chisholm Inn was clean and pretty and very friendly, so we stayed another night. The next day the rain was gone, and so was summer. In its place was perfect fall weather for biking: temps in the mid 60's, bright blue sky with puffy clouds, that kind of thing. So we rode to Hibbing to see the Biggest Iron Pit Mine In The World (the one sight that no visitor to the range should skip.) It was about 16 miles round trip, but the way we did it was more like 22 (don't ask). Hibbing is the biggest town on the range and Chisholm is essentially a suburb of Hibbing, and the drive between the two on Hwy 169 is not particularly attractive. But the trail does not follow the highway at all on this stretch, and consequently was the prettiest piece of trail we saw on the trip. Highly recommended!

Riding from Chisholm to Hibbing Riding from Chisholm to Hibbing
There goes Richard heading down the Hibbing side of the biggest hill between Chisholm and Hibbing. This picture isn't really first chronologically, but it totally epitomizes the feel of this segment of the trail.
Yep, we're on the iron range Yep, we're on the iron range
No, that isn't a spilled bucket of orange paint. It's a puddle of water.
The Chisholm/Hibbing Gorge with Iron World on the far edge The Chisholm/Hibbing Gorge with Iron World on the far edge
A piece of the landscape that has been radically re-engineered by the mining industry. I know it's not politically correct to say this, but I think it's probably a lot prettier now than it was before they got here.
Who would ever have thought that ore dumps would be this lush? Who would ever have thought that ore dumps would be this lush?
This was taken right by the scenic view of the Iron World gorge. Richard insists that funny yellow flower in the front is a type of yarrow. It's all over the ore dumps.
Historic Old Hibbing - only without the houses Historic Old Hibbing - only without the houses
Just the street signs, standing there looking spooky and sad. It looks a whole lot better than it did the first time I saw it, in 1973. The abandoned street signs were here, but no grass or trees, just bare red dirt. There was a big ol' barbed-wire-topped chain link fence around the whole area with trash blown up against it. The town finally wised up and turned it into a pretty campground.
The Hull-Rust-Mahoning Mine, aka the Grand Canyon of the North The Hull-Rust-Mahoning Mine, aka the Grand Canyon of the North
This is where the town of Hibbing used to be before the mining companies talked them into moving it so they could dig this big hole in the ground. This is actually just a small part of that big hole. It is simply jaw-dropping.
More of the Hull-Rust mine pit. More of the Hull-Rust mine pit.
The sign says that the amount of ore that has been removed from this pit is equivalent to digging a tunnel 24 feet in diameter all the way through the earth!
Yet more of the Hull-Rust-Mahoning Pit Yet more of the Hull-Rust-Mahoning Pit
We're now turned 180 degrees from the first pit picture. It's just SOOO big.


More pictures here
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We really didn't mind when we woke up on Tuesday to a dreary all day rain. We'd been vacationing pretty strenuously up to that point, and a day without biking or swimming didn't sound so bad. I've been trying to see the Tower-Soudan Mine for over 20 years, but have never managed to get there in time for the last tour of the day. I finally made it, and had a great time.

Remember how proud Mountain Iron is about being the first mine on the range? What they neglected to mention is that they were just the first on the Mesabi Range. The Soudan mine, on the Vermilion Range, had about a 10-year jump on them. I now know that plus a ton of other fun facts, like how long it takes to drop half a mile into the earth inside a 100-year-old miner's cage, and why iron mining is so much safer than coal mining (except for the hearing loss), and why the mine bosses made a point of integrating the mining teams, and why they shut down the mine with untold tons of high-grade ore still left in it. But the most amazing thing was how much the inside of a 19th-century iron mine looks like a modern first person shooter. Holy crap, there is even a top-secret physics lab down there on the 27th level!! It really is Black Mesa! I forgot to bring my camera for the underground portion of the tour, so you don't get to see the view from the ore car that looks exactly like the point I quit playing Half Life 1 because I couldn't find my way out of the endless miles of mining tunnel. But the pictures I took on the upper level are almost as much fun. Some sights really do look better in the rain.

pictures here )
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I just couldn't get the LJ cut to work right with the pictures in the last entry, so I'm posting the pics in a new entry.


more pictures )
Here's the entire business district of Side Lake Here's the entire business district of Side Lake

Note the no-nonsense name: "Side Lake Store." That's how they name things on the Range. No fooling around with unnecessary adjectives. In Chisholm we saw a root beer stand named "The Stand" and a campground called "Campground Campground."
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We got up on Sunday and indulged in the hotel's free DIY breakfast. The food was about what you'd get at McDonald's (flat eggs, sausage, biscuits, waffles, muffins) but it was free and quick. We'd been considering a morning bike ride, but when we realized how hot it already was at 10am we decided to just head for the lake. The reason we'd started our trip in the midst of Labor Day Weekend was to take advantage of the surprising burst of swimming weather, which was not expected to last past the weekend. 

To my great relief, McCarthy Beach State Park is just as beautiful as I remembered: best state park in Minnesota!  Big Sturgeon Lake is a natural sand-bottom lake with an enormous sandy beach bordered by majestic pines. The park service has scattered numerous picnic tables and benches in the shade of the pines with strategically placed retaining walls between the pines and the sand that provide even more places to sit. The lake is crystal clear and has no weeds or rocks on the bottom - just sand and snails.  There's a big new changing house with flush toilets, and a big parking lot that wasn't close to full. And best of all, still no lifeguards to stop you from using float toys.  A good thing, since my whole vacation had been planned around float toys and bicycles!

The most amazing thing about this gorgeous park is how obscure it is. Judging by my brief survey of people near us on the beach, it seems to be used exclusively by 1) Iron Range locals and 2) people who heard about it from Iron Range locals "Yeah, my wife's cousin used to work at the park...").
more behind the cut )

Picture are here