dreamshark: (sharon tire)
Lots of hotels like to tack "Historic" onto the front of their names, but there's no disputing that this one has earned the moniker.It was built in 1871 by Potter Palmer, one of those larger-than-life Gilded Age tycoons that didn't do anything halfway. Potter built the hotel as a wedding gift for his bride Bertha (a pretty remarkable character in her own right). Not wanting his gift to seem chintzy, he made it the biggest hotel in the world. It opened on Sept 26, 1871. 13 days later it burned down in the Great Chicago Fire. That's the 19th century for you.

Undeterred, Palmer took out the largest individual loan that had ever been secured and rebuilt it, even bigger and grander than before, with part of the floor paved in silver dollars. Bertha had a wonderful time decorating it in typical restrained Gilded Age style, and everybody from Ulysses S. Grant to Oscar Wilde stayed there. In the 1920's, the Palmers having amassed even more money than they had before, they expanded and gradually rebuilt the entire thing. This time they hired a French muralist to make the lobby look like a rococo 18th-century French palace.
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dreamshark: (sharon tire)
001_UnionDepot
We took the Empire Builder to Chicago, and it was fun. We departed from the recently refurbished Union Depot, which was honestly kind of a disappointment. Somehow they have taken one of those impressive old vaulted train stations and made it totally, boringly bland. Except for the mustard colored ceiling, which is the only color ever invented that can clash with beige. *meh*

The coach seats are about the size of 1st-class seats on a plane but with much bigger windows. And best of all, there is an electrical outlet at each seat for keeping your devices charged. Important, since there is no wifi. If buses can have wifi, why not trains?  Huh.
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The best place to spend time is the Observation Lounge, especially when the train is largely empty (as it was on Thursday). Half the car is little seats aimed at the humungous windows. There are tables in the back half of the car where you could eat lunch or play games. But time goes fast if you just zone out and stare at the scenery zipping by in front of your eyes.
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Lots of sad trees with their feet in the water, and drowned bushes. It was a hard winter, but sometimes spring can be even crueler. And finally - the money shot. Hi there,  Wisconsin Dells! Zow. It went by so fast on the way down that I missed the shot. But on the way home I was ready for it.

008_Train010_ChicagoThat's Milwaukee on the left. Click through to the larger picture and you'll see the unmistakable Miller sign in the background. And finally we coast in to the REAL Union Station right next to the Chicago River.

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